If you have never surfed a decent size wave and wiped out… Let me tell you how much fucking power is in just a HEAD HIGH wave… I’ve wiped out and been slammed on the ground 3 consecutive times before I could reach the surface for air

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Not cool what happened to you.

I paddled right back out after a quick breather 😂. It’s just that the the energy just flows in a circle underneath the surface and can be treacherous

Of course