Woohoo! Finally got my lnaddress working in both directions with no middlemen!
CLN with nostr:npub1nc0ynppqh37rtulr57xjqpzmfjp58xrd4ey8896ehn9j5flg33fszrz5pa's excellent clnurl plugin for receiving https://github.com/elsirion/clnurl
Same node with nostr:npub1ce7d8cdg8k49dnl3da34mvhah8kevxfsq2vdguq6trngapqfsdzsnv3d7m's cln_nwc plugin for sending 1-tap zaps https://github.com/gudnuf/cln_nwc
Now I'm zapping in style!
Next step: bolt12 and bip353 zaps :D