Running your own is annoying if you end up in a blacklist.
I use Tuta. Not perfect, but worth the money.
Discussion
Tuta is horrible, they don't use PGP which offers interoperability for other providers, and shove a browser fingerprint up your rectum to control their slow adoption of cryptocurrency. Also they delete accounts that are inactive in a fairly short time, so it’s useless for accounts. Our service offers self-host email, if you're blacklisted, we refund you,