How much of a pain in the ass is it to swap from LND to CLN?

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Yes, this will be good to know!

I might have to sit down and experiment, but I have a fair amount of open channels that I wouldn't like to lose.

Yes, I hear that. I too will have to experiment.

depends on ur HW + knowledge

That really doesn't answer the question though. Have you made the swap with channels still open?

Like for instance, if I have RTL as my front end, can I take a backup in RTL, open up a CLN instance, and then upload those backups to RTL?