One of my favorite tips is that lowering your head at the right time can provide 20kg extra weight on the front of the board to get you into the wave.
Run, swim, paddle, repeat.
You wanna surf proper waves, you got to be strong.
https://video.nostr.build/41df277485c7bd0b445d575aa186636c42ef401197023e3807362181a92cb3bb.mp4
One of my favorite tips is that lowering your head at the right time can provide 20kg extra weight on the front of the board to get you into the wave.
That's good advice.