What's the best guide to running your own LNURL server to connect your node to for self sovereign ln address and zaps? I'm willing to get my hands dirty.

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Btcpayserver+ nostr plugin - very ez

Yup I've done this and love the stack. I'm just trying to learn deeper.

I got my hands dirty with Ligess (probably somewhat outdated)

https://sebastix.nl/blog/ligess-your-personal-lightning-address-with-nostr-zaps-support/

If you have an lnd node, nostdress is good for this