No brand. Local immigrant tailor and a pattern I buy. Build to fit is often cheaper than high end off the rack once relationship is good.

They often know a shoe maker as well.

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Oh really! Never thought of getting bespoke clothes. Wouldn’t that be much much more expensive?

not really over time. they last longer and you take better care of them. helps motivate good weight control as well since letting out seams is an embarrassing trip to tailor.

you could start with decent thrift stuff and get them altered by locals until you find your tailor. proof of work styles lol