what’s the appeal of ham radio? Is it the technical setup, talking with others? The magic of doing it yourself?

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i think its spending time and money on getting the approval of unelected bureaucrats so you can then use natural energy waves to communicate with others far away.

Yes

imagine there was an internet that normies couldn't figure out how to access

I met an German man in his 80s once. Still involved with the hadron collider (not normie). Every time I asked about the collider, he would just talk about getting into ham radio. 🤔