Replying to Avatar channel.ninja

Honestly, I suck at sticking to a year round protocol. In the climbing season I just climb hard and when I don’t get to climb a lot I do a kind of variation of Steve’s non linear periodizatiom where I do strength/power/(power)endurance in alternating sessions with a focus on one of them at a time.
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PABLOF7z 2y ago

that mode is the best for year-round climbers; I think horst's approach is for people that live in shit weathers and can climb 6 weeks out of the year and the rest they are in a torture chamber getting injured 😂

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channel.ninja 2y ago

Yeah, I also read Hörst‘s book and just couldn’t find a way to fit his protocol into my climbing schedule

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PABLOF7z 2y ago

I did a horst mesocycle WHILE LIVING IN MARGALEF

for like two weeks I didn't climbing until one day I thought "ok, this is retarded, I moved here to be able to climb and now I'm driving one hour every three days to go bouldering to a gym" and I stopped

I'm not just not cut for those programs

I did one anderson brothers cycle and I did get mad gains on finger strength but again, having to cut down on my climbing way too much

I'll take climbing shittier grades in exchange for a whole lot more climbing

(I've never climbed 8b but climbed 8a and there's a lot of fun stuff you can on 8a; I'm sure 8b must be something else!)

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channel.ninja 2y ago

😄

I wouldn’t call myself an 8b climber yet tbh. I’ve only climbed one so far. But that was the best I could have hoped for. King line at one of Leonidios best crags and totally my style. Lots of technical kneebars in a huge cave. (And probably soft 😅)