Grabbed coffee and a muffin with my lovely wife this morning and went for a walk. Dropped her off at home for a quick surf until lunch - which was fun but not as good as yesterday’s dawn patrol. Come in for a quick bite and some rosé on the balcony. Run a few errands and head back home for a nap. I end up heading back out for another surf sesh this evening.

Nobody out and perfect head high peelers rolling in one after another. Me and one other guy just traded waves nonstop for like two hours.

Ended up surfing six hours today and I’ll probably be up at dawn tomorrow for more.

Feeling amazing