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Prajna
fa69f1e4a03b8914d2bfe4a16e516d3f30246b429c571c50e2099cb847776b2a
Project Resonance https://projectresonance.uk/ Poems: https://tomboy-pink.co.uk/poems/

Excellent, just messaged him. I put both his npub and user name in search and nada. Thanks.

Haha, Mike is a sapper (royal engineer) too. I didn't find you, rather you responded to one of my posts.

He's npub128n:pqvhp2nw and I set him up on amethyst as @SapperMike. I'm a kiwi originally but lived more than half my life in the UK. Am ex Royal Engineers officer now living off grid and mostly outside the system in central Portugal.

Thanks bro. It's taking a while to find my way into nostr. I'm just following a few people and a couple of hashtags. I'm trying to find a friend who I just got set up on nostr but searching his npub doesn't seem to find him.

Yeah, good story goes along with that pfp but too long to write here.

'twas one Mayday in Trafalgar Square. Appeared in the Guardian attached to an entirely unrelated story. The banner is Big Green Gathering, iirc. May have been Sunrise festival but pretty sure it was BGG.

They are different approaches. Part Design WB enforces the single part paradigm, ensuring that the part is always a complete manifold surface whereas Part WB allows a part to be assembled from discreet primatives. In PD merges are done automatically whilst in Part WB you must carry out any merges or joins manually.

Part Design can be helpful for beginners because it demands a particular way of working that always ensures a printable model but I found it frustrating being bound to that way of working and I prefer to use Part WB as my main process.

I've never had a problem with the PEI plate that came with my V3 KE but I've only printed PLA. I understand that PETG doesn't play nice with PEI and that it is better to use adhesive when printing PETG, not for extra adhesion but to improve release. I think I've only cleaned the sheet (with washing up liquid and hot water) once since I got the printer, though I am careful not to touch the print surface. Often prints release as soon as I lift the print plate and if they don't then they release as soon as they cool down. I've never had to use a scraper.

Replying to 8fa69b66...

https://store.creality.com/products/ender-3-v3-corexz-3d-printer

At the very bottom are reviews. At least two other people had the same catastrophic failure, and the warehouse is unresponsive about replacements.

Granted, my model is the Plus version, but it's a larger bed and this damaged part is also bad. There seems to be replacement nozzles, but that's it for parts. I emailed the store by replying to my email from when I bought it six months ago.

Bottom line: Can anyone recommend a different printer? Bambu's scaring me with their proprietary firmware stuff, so I want to avoid them. Creality's kinda burned me here.

I've heard of Prusa, but is that the only other option?

#3DPrinting

I have the V3 KE and it has been excellent. I did go round and tighten all the screws I could find after I assembled it, and a number of them did need it. So far I have had no probs with the printer, just a learning process to tune a few things that didn't work well out of the box, like setting z-hop. I've not needed Creality's support, which I've heard is not all that responsive but quite generous when you do manage to eventually connect with them.

If the government wants to clamp down on miss information it should shut the fuck up; 98% of miss information would be gone immediately.