This wave is perfectly frustrating. Iāll explain.
Many days we see what I call āmiragesā. Down the beach waves that look absolutely perfect. But when no one surfs it, itās hard to tell if it was actually makeable.
Today, again I saw beautiful waves all over the place, but I did not get the elusive āoneā.
Super frustrating, yet it keeps me wanting more and more and more.
Weāre stacked with waves for as long as I can see. Canāt wait to hunt more tubes and actually fly outta one every once in a while š
