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Replying to Avatar paul keating

This wave is perfectly frustrating. I’ll explain.

Many days we see what I call “mirages”. Down the beach waves that look absolutely perfect. But when no one surfs it, it’s hard to tell if it was actually makeable.

Today, again I saw beautiful waves all over the place, but I did not get the elusive “one”.

Super frustrating, yet it keeps me wanting more and more and more.

We’re stacked with waves for as long as I can see. Can’t wait to hunt more tubes and actually fly outta one every once in a while 🙃

https://m.primal.net/PyXs.mov

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SelfBankt 9mo ago

The thrill of the chase.

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