My dad had me out when I was 5

I did the same for my two sons

North of free Zuma /Ventura county

However, heading south and getting slammed at the wedge was always a good time

Back then no one used a board at the wedge just duck feet

Some say I have a Tom Carroll style but I’m not goofy

In Florida I used to help with the ESA and NSSA competitions at Sebastian etc

My boys where mini grom champs

Soul surfer, I don’t compete