yearly car checkup update tldr I am rekt πŸ’€πŸ«—

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still not selling corn to blackrock tho 😀

well, hard to know where corn goes when you sell it... but avoiding selling corn is always worth doing

i just am doing my best to stack my pay and i know some of my spend is gonna end up meaning corn in blackrock's stack

every day i don't spend as much of my corn trading it for fiat and stuff and services, is a good day

ultimately this is the game goal

πŸΆπŸΎπŸ«‚πŸ«‚πŸ«‚πŸ’œ

πŸ«‚

What are they saying you need done?

2 new tires, also they were dangerously loose or smth (sis in law hit a curb hard i remember, had no idea or feeling they were loose tho lol), new breakpads, something w the flexibility of the exhaust and another fourth thing i cant recall lol.. they also fixed the driver chair that was stuck at shortest position lol (luckily im not that tall, so i was ok w it lol)

it's expected rly, the car is old af

last year i was double as rekt with the same car tho.. giving one last chance to this one for one year bc it's rly not worth it anymore

Tires are definitely important. Loose seems unlikely, but should be free to fix.

Places make the most money on brakes & will often add those to a list whether needed or not. But obviously sometimes they really are worn down. Have they been squealing or making metal noises? Pad changes are basically as easy oil changes, but they often charge $300. Might be worth finding out what they are charging for that.

An exhaust hanger can be important if one is broken or missing. They are generally cheap. If there is no leak or weird exhaust noise then the flex section shouldn't need to be replaced.

thank youu

yes the math all seems to checkout πŸ˜‚

def weird squealing noises and exhaust sounded weird af lately, deep growling noise lol.

also the handbrake light was turned on continuously, even tho it's put off the handbrake.. dont know what was up w that tbh

grateful the gearbox and engine are ok 😁

yeah, squealing tires means low pressure, usually, and it leads to bad side-wear which dramatically reduces traction

anything that gives you a spidey sense spook you should check up on, even just to briefly search on the web for info about it, almost every problem has been asked about on the internet, whether it be on quora or some specialist forum

i just want to repeat also, it's not worth the saving for the cheap gas, get the premium stuff, always, this will make your engine last easily 20% longer, plus it gives you about 5-10% more power

every thing that seems off is a problem, always, never ignore it

oh yeah, deep growling noise is definitely rattling over the axle, and a sign of loose bolts

Growling noise would be the exhaust leak.

yess i checked the note this was it β˜‘

i will def going to consider thanks for highlighting!

The squealing I was referring to would be brakes.

And premium gas generally does very little for fuel economy.

Ethanol free may improve mileage & reduce wear to some degree, but outside of that 87 is generally fine unless your car is turbocharged or has a particularly high compression engine in it.

Fun fact, naturally aspirated rotary engines Rx8s will actually make more power on low octane because the long combustion chamber benefits from a faster flamefront. Personally confirmed this with dyno tests.

ok, i've been out of the loop on the devolution of engines i'll defer to you πŸ˜€

well keeping the wheels bolted on tight is not hard to maintain, should be checked routinely, if you can turn them tighter at all they need to be tighter still

there's a bunch of things you can do to keep a car from crapping out sooner, regular checks of wheel bolt tightness and tire pressure are two for sure, another is regular checks on the water in the radiator and keeping a routine with changing it out, and oil, obviously, high quality oil helps a lot, as does spending a little more on the high quality 98+ octane for a gasoline or whatever the premium diesel is for a diesel... the cheap versions of all these things are not worth it, you actually save money in the long run

thank u fer tips

id def benefit from more checkups, but i cannot do those things myself unfortunately lol

gladly this garage has good ppl, no ripoff feelings 🫢

nice, but seriously, if you depend on this machine, you should take a little time to do these things

i had a big fight with a dude that praised serrated knives for steaks the other week and i was like - but if you just learn how to hone your blades, an actual utility knife is way way better than a steak knife... i pointed out that honing the blade costs 3 seconds and halves the time you spend cutting your steak, and that is a profit all by itself

the same thing applies to car ownership... there's a few small things you can do that really make a big difference to your enjoyment of your property

Using extremely high octane fuels in cars that are not tuned for them will likely have mildly negative consequences.

as opposed to the consequences of ethanol laced junk at 95 or less that eats your cylinders and exhaust and has less than stellar burn rate and produces more tar that increases oil change frequency and cylinder ring wear?

what kinds of engines run on shitty fuel better than good fuel exactly?

is the negative consequence a loss of power or a loss of durability, be specific

Lower octane fuels are just more volatile, they aren't really dirtier, they actually burn faster. Higher octane burns slower & can withstand more pressure. So you can actually end up with a more complete burn using lower octane, depending on the engine.

Higher octane is better for higher heat & higher compression. Lower octane CAN be better for lower compression & large combustion chambers (like rotary engines). But there are a lot of variables. Cooling is a big factor too.

If you put 110 race gas in your average road going consumer car, you are just wasting money. The tune will be too rich & it will likely be worse for the car. But you cannot run a 13:1 compression race engine on 87 or 89 octane, it would likely blow up from pre-ignition or detonation.

Modern cars will generally advance or retard the timing & even adjust fuel maps based on the fuel you choose, so as long as you choose between the normal 87-93 or maybe 95 octane then the car should adjust & the power & fuel mileage may change a little, but it won't be significant. If you have a high compression honda or something turbocharged it may make a bigger difference because the computer may have to actually retard things to protect the engine from low octane gas.

Just fix the most important thing and call it good til next year.

i have no choice lol, they give the passed check i think

right?! welp. too late anyway πŸ˜‚

next year imma keep this in mind🫑

🫑