Huh. How hard would it be for an experienced python backend dev to get up to speed on that platform?

... not that I need another hobby. 😅

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You would be right at home. Most all the common methods are available on micropython. Many of the more common libraries have micropython alternatives. One you get the initial development set up it's just uploading files to the esp32 and it runs the main function on boot. I'm using rsync over USB but there's a web browser based option (haven't used that yet) to transfer files.