it’s rare you get to the top of a multipitch trad route in a remote area and find another group climbers.
should you find yourself in these circumstances, it is mandatory to take a cheesy photo.
2019, north cascades, wa

it’s rare you get to the top of a multipitch trad route in a remote area and find another group climbers.
should you find yourself in these circumstances, it is mandatory to take a cheesy photo.
2019, north cascades, wa

so great 😃
awesome country up there, and cheesy photos are the best photos in such country where a photo can never do the mountains justice
We were doing a multi-pitch trad route on The Chief in Squamish in 1995 and stopped for lunch at the top of about the 10th pitch to have lunch, only to have a free solo climber ease past us with nothing but his shorts, rock shoes and chalk bag on. I was surprised he could climb with all the extra weight of his brass cojones lol.
legend!
The worst part was, the top and 19th pitch was about a 25m pitch with only a tiny crack running to the top, where we could just do an easy hike out. We didn’t have nuts small enough to protect it, so we ended up doing about 16 long double rope rappels to get out, sacrificing anchor hardware and slings on the way down. About halfway down, my partner dropped his descendeur and we thankfully had a spare. But before we found the spare we were considering how to haul up the one we had after the first man’s rappel, then drop the rope down again so the second man could descend using it. It would have been sketchy. Plus every time we pulled the ropes out of the anchors, we were praying they wouldn’t get hopelessly snagged and be unretrievable. What was supposed to be a 5 hour outing ended up seeing us back to our vehicle after dark, walking on ankle breaking boulders and talus in our rock shoes for the last 300m. Thankfully a so we met at the base had headlamps. We didn’t have cell phones either.
Being 6 hours overdue, my girlfriend wasn’t too happy. She barely spoke to me that night. She and my climbing partner’s wife had been checking in with each other all afternoon, thinking the worst. Good times. Lessons learned.
that sounds like a proper epic. those are the ones that I look back on with fondness but were typically brutal in the moment.
I remember getting off route on a descent in red rocks. eventually started rappelling down some drainage. ropes snagged multiple times. no water. one headlamp. eventually got off the wall. couldn’t find the trail. lots of prickly cactus in the multi-hour bushwacking quest to find the car.
good times!