My understanding is anyone can see who is messaging who, but only the sender and receiver or whomever has a copy of their private keys can read the contents of the messages because they are encrypted.

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The way I describe it to people is it’s like having a conversation in a crowded noisy bar. Everyone can see who you’re talking to, but they can’t hear what you’re saying.

That said, there will be fully private relays that require membership to read. Those will be hard to monitor.

That's a good analogy.