Honest I think that first part is innate, we all have it. And it’s something like emotional connection but more physical. I don’t know why we ‘like’ and recognise pitch or tuning but even none musicians respond to it and can tell someone with a pure pitch or someone who’s hitting bum notes. But regards learning the language, I think some people have a massive head start.
You can definitely learn a lot of it - how western music works, chords, cadences, harmony - base, tenor, alto, soprano type rules for making music we all recognise. But some people don’t need to be taught it, it’s just obvious, like breathing.
And then there are the ones who change and bend the rules and start something new.
But I reckon ‘musicians’ are just the ones that innately understand sound in a weird way that’s intuitive.
Personally I try not to think about it too much. It’s weird to me that music almost a physical expression of maths, it’s kind of autistic how some people just breathe it and others have to really try.