How does one host their own ln address? AlbyHub on a self-hosted Umbrel has taken me pretty far, but what's the rest of the picture?

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You can do it on BTCpayServer, but GetAlby's easier because BTCpayServer requires a reverse TOR proxy.

I've got millions of webservers!

you need a public IP (some cheap vps paid by bitcoin)

wireguard tunnel to your umbrel

install nginx/haproxy to route the traffic to your node

install lnbits

add lnurlp plugin (or how that's called)

done.

I can put together something more like a tutorial, but this is a blueprint