From Grok:
High Dynamic Range (HDR) photography captures a greater range of brightness levels than a single exposure allows, mimicking how the human eye sees high-contrast scenes (e.g., bright skies and dark shadows).
How It Works
1. Shoot bracketed exposures: Take multiple photos (usually 3ā9) of the same scene at different exposures (under-, normal-, and over-exposed) using a tripod.
2. Merge: Combine them into a single 32-bit HDR image using software (e.g., Photoshop, Lightroom, Photomatix).
3. Tone map: Compress the wide dynamic range into a viewable format (e.g., JPEG), adjusting contrast and details for a natural or artistic look.
Benefits
- Reveals details in highlights and shadows.
- Ideal for landscapes, sunsets, interiors, and architecture.
Common Issues
- Overprocessing creates unnatural halos, oversaturation, or "grungy" effects (common in early HDR).
- Modern practice favors subtle, realistic results.
When to Use
High-contrast scenes; avoid for moving subjects (ghosting) or low-contrast lighting.
With improving camera sensors, single-shot HDR modes are common, but multi-exposure bracketing remains best for extreme dynamic range.
Ah, yes, I used to do this a lot in the past, but this has some major drawbacks that irritate me, so eventually i stopped doing it. Today I only go for single shot frames. They are harder to properly expose and focus in certain situations, but it forces me to be more mindful about both. As a result, I get a lot less image trash and I donāt wear down my gear and my physical memory. Post processing after is much simpler and straightforward, so I lose less time and energy in the development process. I also get more naturally looking photos.
Sure, bracketing and focus stacking can be a powerful tool, but I donāt like the tradeoffs. Most pros do them all the time. If youāre shooting Nightscapes for example, thereās no way around it. For my workflow tho, itās not a requirement and Iāve learned to do well without it.
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